|So, Park makes this professional headset press for $145||And this “home shop” press for $57|
And tonight I built one for $4.50
Should be pretty self explanatory. I used 3/4 inch threaded rod from Home Depot, a couple washers and a couple bolts. Probably overkill.
To use, simply tighten one of the bolts with a crescent wrench. (Imagine that PVC pipe is a head tube.) I don’t think it’s absolutely necessary, but if you really really want to finish it out, you can pick up the cups separately for about $25 – bringing the price of this tool to about $30 – still half the price of even the home unit, and 1/5th the price of the professional tool.
But I’d like to stress, i don’t think this is absolutely necessary. Just handy.
Addendum: Here are people doing it better than I am.
Also worked on my lights. I had a couple problems with the Dinotte. Firstly, this (now “fixed”) Because of the location of the on/off button there, after not too long of turning it off and on, or dimming it, or whatever, well do it on the fly, with gloves, etc, and the wire there first pulls out of the housing and secondly, will actually break connection after a bit. Lovely. I had to pull what little slack there was inside the light and solder on a connection. What you’re looking at there is as close as I could get the heat shrink on the repair job, which still isn’t close enough. Basically I have to find a way to move the on/off/fade/blink settings off the light itself, or I’m simply going to break the wire again.
Very simple, it only turns on and off right now. I’m making a new waterproof battery box with an on/off button, a flash button, and a fade. When put together, it looks like this.
Why a whole new battery box? Well, to mount the switch, but also because my spare battery pack friggin MELTED in my pocket during the Bellingham Century Ride – it was that wet.
IN. MY. POCKET.
You can see the on/off button in red The battery box will go there where the battery bag presently sits, and will have the on/off button and enough room for the spare battery pack. Should be easy enough to do.
I guess an alternate solution would be to take the circuit board out of the light, extend the wires from the lamp, and remount the circuit board in the battery box, and use the native on/off/blinker switch. I just don’t know how easy mounting it is going to be.
Oh, that PVC pipe I have zip tied to the front of my rack to act as a light mount, I’ll probably cover that in fabric tape and shellac it just so it looks good. Might as well. Easy to do.
Anyhow, I should get some sleep even though I’m not tired, and I’m super bored. Pacer frame presumably ships on Monday finally. I think I’ve got everything I need. I’m just waiting now. I hate waiting. Gah.